Food & Drink - My Irie Time

Conch Knocking05.11.12

Courtesy of Da Conch Shack, on Providenciales in the Turks & Caicos Islands, is this beautifully prepared conch salad, pulled fresh from the ocean. Once the conch shell hits the work table, they knock a hole in the top of the shell, to expose the tendon which holds the conch inside. In one swift motion with his knife, the tendon is cut, the meat extracted, and the shell is tossed. Be sure to enjoy the delicious result with a cold Carib or one of Da Conch Shack’s fabulous rum punches. For more on Da Conch Shack, and why it is one of our favorite beach bars, read on…

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Happy Cinco de Mayo!05.05.12

Our honeymoon 20 years ago was in Huatulco, Mexico, which at the time had only three resorts, Club Med, a Sheraton, and an all-inclusive, the Royal Maeva. After paying for the wedding ourselves, the idea of an all-inclusive was comforting. It was the perfect time and place to spend a week in paradise without having to pull out your wallet. Since then, we have drifted away from all-inclusives because we love to try the local food. We have discovered so many fantastic restaurants along the way.

Aside from our visits to Mexico, we tend not to visit Mexican restaurants when we travel, despite the fact that we love Mexican food. I’m not talking about made-for-Americans, bland Mexican food. I’m talking about food with well-developed flavors, the sauces that take hours to cook. After eating at Rick Bayless’s Topolobampo in Chicago, I have made the majority of the dishes out of “Mexican Kitchen.” We tend to avoid Mexican food in other countries, probably because we suspect that it won’t be that good.

When we first visited Anguilla in 2007, a friend suggested Picante. Given the recommendation, we thought we would give it a try. Since then, we visit at least twice a trip. The story of the restaurant is pretty appealing. Chloe and Theron Loizos left successful restaurant careers in Marin County, California to open Picante. The idea of a restaurant does not alone make it successful. The restaurant is a success because of the fantastic food and warm service. We felt right at home when we were offered a shot of something (my husband would probably remember) by Theron on our first visit, and he sat down with us at the table to share. The margaritas are delicious, but you should exercise a bit of care before you order too many pitchers. Thankfully, my husband was driving. The margaritas were REALLY good!

Be sure to round out your meal with the churros. They are crisp on the outside and warm inside, and served with a fabulous caramel sauce.

Love the boxes of Chiclets with the check!

Who knew you could find such a wonderful slice of Mexico in Anguilla?

For more information on Picante…All words and images ©2006-2012 Wendy G. Gunderson. Any use without written permission is prohibited. For licensing information, please send inquiries via the Contact page.

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Favorite Beach Bars: Smokey’s, Anguilla04.29.12

Smokey 1 Favorite Beach Bars: Smokeys, Anguilla

Rum Punch at Smokey's

When I first started writing the series on my favorite beach bars, Smokey’s at the Cove, Cove Bay, Anguilla, was at the top of my list. I have waited to write this, only because I feared not being able to do it justice. Smokey’s was the bar that made me fall in love with the Caribbean. There was something about walking along the beach to find yourself at a bar with amazing views, great food and drink, friendly people, and what sealed the deal – live music – and not just live music, but a Caribbean version of favorite Christmas songs.

It was our on first trip to Anguilla in 2007. Our flight brought us to Anguilla late on a Friday, so by the time we arrived at Blowing Point Harbor, the sun was nearly gone. We awoke to see the white sand and turquoise waters for which Anguilla is famous. We were staying at the Cuisinart, and I had heard that Smokey’s had live music at lunch on Saturday. We walked along the beach to find Smokey’s. In 2007, there was no problem walking to Smokey’s, although there were areas of coral to traverse. When we arrived, we were glad for the effort. This is how Smokey’s looked back in 2007. It looks like they were working on the facelift, as the sign had been removed from the beach side of the building.

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Smokey's at the Cove, 2007

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Inside Smokey's, 2007

We loved it so much, we stopped at Smokey’s for one last lunch before flying home. The skies were rather dramatic that day. There had been an earthquake registering 7.3 on the Richter scale in Martinique, and the quake was felt throughout the islands, including Anguilla. Thereafter, there were strange cloud formations rolling through.

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Smokey's, 2007

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Front Moving Through Following Earthquake, 2007

Smokey’s has since updated, changing the pink to blue, and adding a deck with tables and umbrellas. The food, drink, music and hospitality remain unchanged – perfect.

Smokey's, 2009

The view is still spectacular…

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Smokey's, 2010

And the food, still delicious…

Smokey's, 2009

And the refreshing beverages don’t disappoint…

Smokey's Rum Punch

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Carib at Smokey's

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Carib at Smokey's

And, of course, the music…

Now, I can’t go on raving about the music without giving you a listen. Last visit, I recorded a bit so I could remember why I love it there so much. It’s not the same as sitting on the deck, with a drink in your hand, and watching the waves while you listen, but make yourself a rum punch, close your eyes, and imagine you are there. Well, before you close your eyes, click play on this slideshow, with excerpts from the performance of The Musical Brothers at Smokey’s on our visit in 2010. Enjoy!
All words and images ©2006-2012 Wendy G. Gunderson. Any use without written permission is prohibited. For licensing information, please send inquiries via the Contact page.

twitt Favorite Beach Bars: Smokeys, Anguilla

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Favorite Beach Bars: Chevy’s and Double Deuce, Nevis04.29.12

Sunshines 211 Favorite Beach Bars: Chevys and Double Deuce, Nevis

View from Sunshine's

One great thing about staying at the Four Seasons on Nevis is that there are great beach bars located a short walk from the resort. We arrived on Nevis just as the sun was setting, and after changing clothes, we headed out in search of something to eat. We had started the day with a 3:00 a.m. wakeup call and a 5:40 a.m. flight out of Chicago. By the time we hit Nevis, we were ready for dinner and an early bedtime. We started walking south (counterclockwise if you look at Nevis as a clock face), and ran into a string of bars. However, it was dark by then, and we couldn’t see which was which. We blindly made our choice, and found ourselves at the famous Sunshine’s Beach Bar, and relaxed with a few Killer Bees, Sunshine’s signature drink. For the full story on Sunshine’s, I devoted an entire blog post to it and my encounter with three Killer Bees. You can read all the details here…

So that you’re not in the dark on the bars of Pinney’s beach, here’s the layout. As you walk south from the Four Seasons, the first place you will encounter is this place, the name I was never able to learn. It was always busy, although you weren’t seeing any tourists there.

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Name that bar!

The next stop along the way, set back from the beach, is Lime Cafe. I’ve heard wonderful things about the food there, but it’s not open for dinner, and with the big breakfasts at the Four Seasons, we didn’t have many lunch opportunities.

Lime Cafe

The very next place is Chevy’s. We had dinner at Chevy’s one night, and I have to say that Chevy’s chicken wings were the best I’ve ever tasted. They were spicy, but not enough to blast your tastebuds into oblivion. Chevy greeted us and we invited him to have a seat, enjoying a long talk. One thing I really loved about Nevis is that the owners greet you personally and are glad to share a story. Chevy was great to talk to, and described how he developed the wing flavorings and the time he put into it. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get the recipe, but I’m going to keep working on it!

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Chevy's Beach Side Bar

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Guinness Time

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Chevy chatting with a customer

Just past Chevy’s, is Sunshine’s.

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Sunshine's, from the beach

Then walk a bit farther. With just a little longer walk, you will see Double Deuce.

Double Deuce

Double Deuce interior

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Double Deuce interior

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Bar at Double Deuce

Our dinner at Double Deuce was amazing. Check out the grilled wahoo, garlic shrimp, and the barbecue ribs!

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Garlic Shrimp

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BBQ Ribs

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Grilled Wahoo

As we are finishing our meal that night, a party of six was seated and immediately ordered the burgers. We caught a glimpse of the burgers as they were brought out, and we were determined to return to get one. When we returned, we didn’t even consult the menu board, instead ordering three burgers, until we were told that they were out of burgers for the night.

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Double Deuce Menu (prices are E.C.)

This line is where DD Burger once was…

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Oh no!

The disappointment on our faces and in our voices was pretty apparent, so our server checked in the kitchen, and they had enough to make two burgers! You have never seen anyone so happy to order a burger. We rounded it out with an order of ribs, and had a great meal. The only reason you don’t see a photo of the burger is that it had no chance to be photographed before being devoured. Don’t miss out! Go early or call ahead. It’s totally worth the effort!

twitt Favorite Beach Bars: Chevys and Double Deuce, Nevis

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Favorite Beach Bars: Gwen’s Reggae Grill, Anguilla04.29.12

Gwen's Reggae Grill, Anguilla

I had heard about Gwen’s Reggae Grill before our first trip to Anguilla in 2007, but we didn’t actually make it there until 2009. Gwen’s is located somewhat apart from the hustle and bustle of bars and restaurants that you immediately see when you arrive at Shoal Bay East, a gorgeous stretch of sand and water on Anguilla’s north coast. To get to Gwen’s, you walk east along the beach…

On the path to Gwen's, Shoal Bay East, Anguilla

…and then start watching for signs, which will confirm you’re headed in the right direction.

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Sign leading the way to Gwen's Reggae Grill

Soon you will see an oasis of great food and drink, Gwen’s Reggae Grill.

Gwen's Reggae Grill, Anguilla

Looking overhead at the gorgeous palm trees

This was Gwen’s in 2009. Sadly, Gwen’s had a fire on November 20, 2010, just four days before we returned to Anguilla. We couldn’t bear to see the ruins, so we did not head that way on our 2010 trip. However, Gwen’s has rebuilt, and although it may be a bit more time before the palm trees are this glorious overhead, the spectacular view and wonderful hospitality continue on.

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View from Gwen's Reggae Grill, Anguilla

twitt Favorite Beach Bars: Gwens Reggae Grill, Anguilla

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Favorite Beach Bars: Sand Bar, Anguilla04.29.12

Sand Bar, Anguilla

I’ve said many times that the Anguilla Guide Forum never steers me wrong. It’s a great resource on travel to Anguilla, where to stay, where to eat, and pretty much everything you need to know and more about travel to the island. After our 2009 trip, the forum was buzzing with talk about a new place in Sandy Ground called SandBar.

The menu at SandBar, covered in sandpaper!

SandBar is owned and operated by 4-Diamond Award winning Executive Chef Denise Carr, formerly the Executive Chef at Cusinart Resort and Spa, where in 2007 she managed the National Culinary Team of Anguilla, and her husband, Lenox “Joash” Proctor. The food and drink is what you would expect from these credentials. The tapas menu, which is cleverly covered in sandpaper, is a treasure of small gems. My favorite was the watermelon and feta tapa, an unusual combination, at least from my perspective, which was delightful. Check out SandBar’s most current offerings on the “Info” tab on their Facebook page. It makes your mouth water. You can see from the comments of visitors that SandBar is gathering a dedicated following.

Also offered are a selection of delicious cocktails, also listed on their Facebook page including fruit-infused rums, which you can admire next to the bar.

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Infused Rum at SandBar

The furnishings and decor are geared toward appreciating your place on the sand. Sandbar is decorated in soft ocean hues, a palette of blues and browns. There are soft comfortable couches to enjoy, or a hammock, if you are inclined, in addition to the traditional seating.

The beach at Sandy Ground is a great place to watch people and catch the boats moving about.

If you can time your visit to catch a sunset, you won’t be disapointed.

For more information on SandBar, including a listing of their current menu, check out their Facebook page, and click “Like” to keep up-to-date on what’s happening there.

twitt Favorite Beach Bars: Sand Bar, Anguilla

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Favorite Beach Bars: Dune Preserve, Anguilla04.29.12

Dune Preserve 5 Favorite Beach Bars: Dune Preserve, Anguilla

View From Dune Preserve, Anguilla, 2010

The secret is out. Well, it wasn’t really a secret. You don’t get the honor of #1 Beach Bar in the World without having been noticed by a few people. When we first visited Anguilla in November of 2007, we stayed at the Cuisinart Resort, just steps from the best beach bar in the world, Dune Preserve. We learned of Dune Preserve when while planning for the trip, we discovered the music of Bankie Banx, who is one of the island’s most famous residents. We made our children, ages 8 and 10, stay up long past their vacation bedtime (which is even later than their regular bedtime), to go see Bankie play. We actually met Bankie the afternoon of the show while he was working on construction of the bar. This photo from back in 2007 shows the work being done at the time.

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Dune Preserve under construction, 2007

The improvements were preceded by the concert for preservation of the dune by Bankie and Jimmy Buffett in March of 2007, culminating in the Live in Anguilla CD/DVD set. I have the DVD in my player in my office and loop it on really cold days.

Anyway, we were on the beach that afternoon in 2007 taking our Christmas card photo, when my daughter pointed in the direction of Dune Preserve and asked, “Is that Bankie Banx?,” pretty good for a 10-year-old. I told her she should find out for herself. This is one of her most cherished photos.

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Al and Bankie Banx, 2007

Bankie invited us to come to the show that night, and we stayed as long as our 8-year-old’s patience and energy would permit.

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Welcome to Dune Preserve, 2007

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Clip from our daughter's video, 2007

Every year, we return to have a drink, listen to some music, and get an autographed t-shirt for our daughter. What attracts so many people to this place is the laid back atmosphere and good music. It makes you dream of one day staying here forever and being “Stuck in Paradise.”

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Bankie Banx at Dune Preserve, 2009

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Inside Dune Preserve, 2010

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Dune Preserve, Anguilla, 2010

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Another autograph for Allison, 2010

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Meeting Bankie Banx, 2010

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View from Dune Preserve, 2009

twitt Favorite Beach Bars: Dune Preserve, Anguilla

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Favorite Beach Bars: Sunshine’s Beach Bar, Nevis04.29.12

Sunshines 27 Favorite Beach Bars: Sunshines Beach Bar, Nevis

Welcome to Sunshine's

When you tell people you just got back from Nevis, they either ask, “Where is Nevis?” or “Did you get a Killer Bee from Sunshine’s?”

Sunshine’s Beach Bar is an institution on Pinney’s Beach, just a short walk from the Four Seasons. We arrived on Nevis just as the sun was setting, and after being shown to our rooms, we changed clothes and headed to Sunshine’s.

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Sunset on Pinney's Beach

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Take a seat

Looking around Sunshine’s, you can see the love of the patrons over the years. The ceiling is covered with flags from schools, states, and organizations.

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Flags adorn Sunshine's

It was clear that a number of Wisconsin residents had visited!

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On Wisconsin

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Wisconsin State Flag

The walls are covered in license plates from every corner of the earth.

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Sunshine's from Brazil

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License Plates at Sunshine's

Having heard about the Killer Bee, I had to give it a try. I tried three. In retrospect, I should have stopped at two. They sneak up on you. That fresh grating of nutmeg on top is deceptive. The sweetness convinces you that this is a fabulous rum punch, and it is, but watch your step. There’s a good dose of high octane rum in that drink.

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Sunshine's "Killer Bee"

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Love that Nutmeg

Next time, I’ll work in a few Tings.

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Ting (without the zing)

Luckily, I was able to taste the food before I lost consciousness. We were starving after a long journey which began at 3:00 a.m., Central Standard Time, and that’s 1:00 a.m. Nevis time. We ordered the ribs, the shrimp, the conch salad, and the chicken wings. The chicken wings were our favorite, and required a return visit.

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Conch Salad

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Shrimp

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Ribs

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Chicken Wings

We had a little friend come visit, but we weren’t sharing!

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Sunshine Puppy

We had to return, and did a number of times. One afternoon, we popped over, just as daytrippers from St. Kitts were concluding their visit. We saw a number of boats make the daily trek from St. Kitts over to Sunshine’s while we were soaking up the sun in front of the resort.

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Sunshine's, from the beach

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Pull up a chair

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Daytrippers from St. Kitts

There was also a birthday party that afternoon.

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Birthday Party at Sunshine's

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Relaxing at Sunshine's

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Sunshine, taking care of his customers

We grabbed a few Caribs at the bar and sat back to soak it in.

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Caribs at Sunshine's

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View of St. Kitts

We ordered some more of those great chicken wings, and I ordered the “Sunshine Salad.” When I asked what was in it, I was told, “lots of love.” I couldn’t turn that down. By the way, the salad was spectacular.

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More of those fabulous wings

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Sunshine Salad, Made with Love

While we were there, we ran into Sweet Pea. Sweet Pea does hair braiding, and she is quick with a kind greeting as you pass her on the beach. She’ll also tell you about all the great local places to eat.

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Sweet Pea

I have to say that I am most impressed that on Nevis, when you stop in at someone’s place, the owner greets you and welcomes you personally. We had a great time chatting with Sunshine and the folks at his place. There’s no mystery why Sunshine’s is on everyone’s list for their visit to Nevis.

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Last night at Sunshine's

twitt Favorite Beach Bars: Sunshines Beach Bar, Nevis

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Favorite Beach Bars: Da Conch Shack, Providenciales04.29.12

It has been said that food always tastes better with your feet in the sand. That’s true, and it tastes even better if you can have a rum punch in your hand while you watch them pull your meal from the sea. At Da Conch Shack in the Blue Hills area of Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands, you can experience just that. We discovered Da Conch Shack on our second trip to Providenciales in 2008. We visited the Blue Hills area in 2006 when we went to the Turks and Caicos Conch Festival, but we did not make it to Da Conch Shack. We visited on our trip in 2008, and loved it so much we returned again before making the trip back home. When you arrive at Da Conch Shack, take off your shoes and make your way to one of the picnic tables. We prefer the ones in the sand.

Order a rum punch from the bar.

Then, order pretty much everything off the menu. The conch fritters, conch salad, and whole snapper are fabulous, but the best part of the visit was watching them pull the conch from the water and prepare it in front of your eyes. First, they grab the boat and go out to grab some conch…

They will haul in the catch, and toss it up on shore…

Then the conch hits the work table…

They start by knocking a small hole into the top of the shell…

In one swift motion, he then cuts the tendon which holds the conch into the shell and discards the empty shell…

Now it’s time to enjoy a fresh, delicious conch salad, with your feet in the sand and a rum punch at your side. Ahhhhhhh……………..

For more information: Da Conch Shack

Don’t miss beautiful Grace Bay Beach in the Turks and Caicos Islands

twitt Favorite Beach Bars: Da Conch Shack, Providenciales

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Good Friday: April 6, 201204.06.12

anacaona 1 copy Good Friday: April 6, 2012

Fish! Check out the whole fish and fresh johnnycakes served with the Anguillan breakfast at Anacaona Boutique Hotel on Meads Bay in Anguilla. For more on our 2010 stay at Anacaona and our third trip to Anguilla, read on…

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Hole in the Wall03.25.12

hole in the wall 11 Hole in the Wall

The best restaurant recommendations seem to come from cab drivers and rental car representatives. This spot, “Hole in the Wall,” on Old Airport Road near the Turks & Caicos Community College, Providenciales, recommended by Grace Bay Car Rentals, quickly became on of our favorites. For more images from Providenciales, check out our Turks & Caicos Gallery.

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Pot of Gold at the End of the Rainbow03.17.12

rodney 1 Pot of Gold at the End of the Rainbow

As seen on our way to Rodney’s Cuisine, Nevis.

twitt Pot of Gold at the End of the Rainbow

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Shamrocks Everywhere03.17.12

double deuce 9 Shamrocks Everywhere

Spotted at Double Deuce on Pinney’s Beach, Nevis.

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Guinness Time03.17.12

chevys 1 Guinness Time

Shot at Chevy’s on Pinney’s Beach, Nevis. I didn’t notice the little red sign until later!

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Chillin’ on Ireland Time03.16.12

danny buoys 1 3 Chillin on Ireland Time

A wee bit of Ireland may be found in the islands at Danny Buoy’s on the island of Providenciales in the Turks & Caicos Islands. We found refuge there several times on our visits, and I have a memory of spending some time there on a unusually rainy day back in 2007. A perfect place to spend St. Patrick’s Day!

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Sunday Morning Cravings03.11.12

A regular stop when we’re on Anguilla is Geraud’s. Geraud’s Patisserie serves amazing pastries, breakfasts, breads, and sandwiches, but I can’t help but crave the pain du chocolat. Unbelievably good. If you’re on the island, don’t miss it!

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Spreading a Little Sunshine03.04.12

Recently, we received a request from Sunshine’s Beach Bar in Nevis to use our images to update their Facebook page. We were happy to oblige. The entire staff at Sunshine’s treated us like family, despite never having met before. Check out Sunshine’s new Facebook page, and if you’re on the island, be sure to stop by for a Killer Bee. If you like the look of Sunshine’s new page, and want to update your own business page, drop a line to Ozelle Martin at Pink Splash Media, who put it all together. To read more about our visits to Sunshine’s, read on… Also, be sure to check out My Irie Time’s Facebook page for our images and stories from the islands.

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Surround Yourself with History03.03.12

This is the sugar mill at the Montpelier Plantation, now the Montpelier Plantation Inn, a Relais & Chateaux property and a AAA 4 Diamond recipient, on the island of Nevis. You can dine in the 300-year-old mill and surround yourself with history, along with fantastic fews of Mount Nevis. For more views of Montpelier, and other stops on the Nevis Heritage Trail, read on…

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Welcome to Blue Hills02.28.12

Welcome to Blue Hills, Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Islands, and more specifically, welcome to Da Conch Shack. Da Conch Shack has be regarded as one of the top beach bars in the world and one of our favorites. To find out why, read on…

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My Irie Time Store is Open!02.25.12

The My Irie Time shop is now open! You can order prints, canvases, metal prints, cards, and other goodies with your favorite images from the Caribbean. I ordered a 24″ x 40″ canvas of the image above for over the whirlpool tub in our master bath, and it’s stunning! New images will be added from time to time, so check back often. If you don’t see an image you want in the store, let us know, and we will make it available. Also, if you would like custom cards, just let us know what you would like. To check out the store, click the link on the header or click here…

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It’s National Margarita Day!02.22.12

It seems like an event such as this should be an “international,” not just a “national,” celebration. Oh well, here’s to National Margarita Day, with a margarita courtesy of Picante, one of our favorite restaurants in Anguilla. For more on our visits to Picante, read on…

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What’s Cooking in Our Kitchen02.19.12

I have many times featured what’s cooking in our favorite restaurants in the islands. Today’s snapshot is from our own kitchen. These are Jamaican Meat Patties made from the recipe in Lucinda’s Authentic Jamaican Kitchen. They are easy to make and so delicious! We served them with Oxtail Soup, also from Lucinda’s book, into which I added kale, okra, and a bit of Thai Red Chile Paste from Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid’s Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A Culinary Journey Through Southeast Asia to punch up the heat. Try it!

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It’s 5 O’Clock Somewhere…02.17.12

If I’ve got my time zones right, it’s 5 o’clock in Nevis right now, where this ice-cold Carib was served up at Sunshine’s Beach Lounge. Have a wonderful weekend! For more on our visits to Sunshine’s, read on…All words and images ©2006-2012 Wendy G. Gunderson. Any use without written permission is prohibited. For licensing information, please send inquiries via the Contact page.

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So many choices…02.16.12

The bar at Cabana, at the Four Seasons Nevis.All words and images ©2006-2012 Wendy G. Gunderson. Any use without written permission is prohibited. For licensing information, please send inquiries via the Contact page.

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Down at the end of Lonely Street02.07.12

Welcome to Elvis’ Beach Bar, Sandy Ground, Anguilla. You’ll also pass Heartbreak Hotel on your way from the parking lot to the beach. For more shots from our trips to Anguilla, take a look at the Anguilla gallery…

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Conch Knocking05.11.12

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Happy Cinco de Mayo!05.05.12

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Favorite Beach Bars: Smokey’s, Anguilla04.29.12

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Favorite Beach Bars: Chevy’s and Double Deuce, Nevis04.29.12

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Favorite Beach Bars: Gwen’s Reggae Grill, Anguilla04.29.12

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Favorite Beach Bars: Sand Bar, Anguilla04.29.12

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Favorite Beach Bars: Dune Preserve, Anguilla04.29.12

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Favorite Beach Bars: Sunshine’s Beach Bar, Nevis04.29.12

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Favorite Beach Bars: Da Conch Shack, Providenciales04.29.12

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Good Friday: April 6, 201204.06.12

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Hole in the Wall03.25.12

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Pot of Gold at the End of the Rainbow03.17.12

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Shamrocks Everywhere03.17.12

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Guinness Time03.17.12

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Chillin’ on Ireland Time03.16.12

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Sunday Morning Cravings03.11.12

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Spreading a Little Sunshine03.04.12

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Surround Yourself with History03.03.12

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Welcome to Blue Hills02.28.12

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My Irie Time Store is Open!02.25.12

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It’s National Margarita Day!02.22.12

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What’s Cooking in Our Kitchen02.19.12

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It’s 5 O’Clock Somewhere…02.17.12

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So many choices…02.16.12

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Down at the end of Lonely Street02.07.12

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