Before leaving Anguilla, I had intended to write a story about the island’s recovery after the devastation of Hurricane Irma.  While we were there, I looked for all the things that had changed. Homes, hotels, restaurants, and businesses had been rebuilt, and some were in the process of rebuilding. But upon reflection, this was not what I really wanted to write about. What was most remarkable was not the new structures, new businesses, or renovations. Instead, what inspired me was what compels us to return again and again. Anguilla is more than what is, or was, there.  Instead, it is about who is there. Anguilla is back? The heart of…