The Heart of Anguilla

Before leaving Anguilla, I had intended to write a story about the island’s recovery after the devastation of Hurricane Irma.  While we were there, I looked for all the things that had changed. Homes, hotels, restaurants, and businesses had been rebuilt, and some were in the process of rebuilding. But upon reflection, this was not what I really wanted to write about. What was most remarkable was not the new structures, new businesses, or renovations. Instead, what inspired me was what compels us to return again and again. Anguilla is more than what is, or was, there.  Instead, it is about who is there. Anguilla is back? The heart of Anguilla, the spirit of Anguilla, never left.

The recovery of Anguilla is a testament to the people behind it.  When the hurricane first hit, communication was sparse. When reports started coming in, the news was devastating.  Irma was a Category 5 hurricane, bringing wind speeds of 185 mph, with gusts up to 218 mph. The storm damaged 90 percent of the government buildings, including the hospital, schools, airport, and ferry terminal.  The island’s infrastructure was heavily damaged, leaving the island without electricity, telephone, and internet. Essential supplies were at a premium.  Temporary service was restored, and photographs brought home the extent of the destruction. It was as if every leaf on every tree was swept away.

Help was on the way. The British government approved an aid package, which brought much-needed supplies to the island. The Anguilla Red Cross worked around the clock distributing emergency supplies. Multiple relief fund organizations were created. Businesses organized to raise funds for their displaced workers. Fundraising events were organized to raise money. Anguilla’s community was strong, both on and off the island. 

It was with that strength that Anguilla rebounded.  Beginning with the little yellow flowers that bloomed after the rain subsided, the recovery began.  It was not easy. Residents were without electricity and running water. The airports and ferry ports were heavily damaged.  Without tourists, many were without any source of income. Some temporarily left the island to find work.  

The basic needs were restored with persistence and hard work. By December of 2017, just three months after the storm, 87 percent of the electrical service had been restored.

The island returned, better than before. Garvey Lake’s Sunshine Shack on Rendezvous Bay was leveled by the storm, but quickly rebuilt, welcoming customers as early as December 2017.  Bankie Banx’s Dune Preserve reopened in June of 2018, in time for the island’s Folk and Blues Festival.  Larger structures took considerably more time. The CuisinArt Resort reopened in November of 2018, and Belmond Cap Juluca welcomed guests back this past December.  The work is not done, but the restoration of the island is impressive.

The tremendous effort and persistence of Anguillans paid off. At the time of our January 2019 visit, the island appeared as if it had never skipped a beat.  It was not just that there were brand new structures or extensive renovations.  It was the immense pride of those who knew that they had the strength and determination to weather the storm. Although it was wonderful to see the beautiful rebuilt homes and businesses, what was heartwarming to see was Omari Banks playing at Da Vida, Garvey Lake working the grill at the Sunshine Shack, Lowell Hodge opening his own restaurant, Sharky’s, and Zambezi riding horseback along the beach. Anguilla is prosperous, and they are the reason why. Anguilla’s pride was showing in their magnificent accomplishments.   Anguilla is “back” because Anguillans never relented. 

As Omari Banks sang in “Caribbean Strong,” “not all hope is gone because we’re Anguilla strong, our spirit lives within.” Some may say it is a tremendous comeback, but the heart of Anguilla was never lost.

Excerpt of “Caribbean Strong,” used with the kind permission of Omari Banks. Pick up a copy of “Caribbean Strong” on iTunes, and find more of Omari’s music at omaribanks.com. 

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